Sa wat dit from Thailand. How you have survived this long without a dollop of fresh blog to pour over I just don't know but we're glad that you have made it back so i can waste some more of your time.
Previously on The Long Way To Milford Sound.......
Rory and Ryan arrived in Singapore where Ryan through up and lost his wallet. Rory relaxed in the warm waters and golden sands of Pulau Tioman in southern Malaysia. After joining forces with two other intrepid travellers they bused it all the way to the Twin Towers and grimey streets of Kuala Lumpar. From here they made their way to Melaka where Rory flexed his Backgammon muscles and showed Malaysia what us Irish Backgammoners are made of. A twisty road to the Cameron Highlands lay ahead of them, where cool clean air was a welcome change. From here they part company with their newest of friends and delve deep into the virgin forests of Taman Negara and its abundance of Bat poop. Only the prospect of the worlds finest snorkeling and perfect beaches could pull them away from there poop lined palace in the woods and the Perhentians didn't disappoint.
Where do we go now i hear you murmur under stifled breath? Well since that was about 2 weeks ago now, i can answer your burning questions and supply you with our latest fix of travel induced gossip.
The boarder into Thailand was only a short bus journey away. Surprisingly easily and without any questions regarding drugs we entered this ancient Kingdom where H.M. King Rama IX held in highest esteem. As we stared out the window or leant out the doorways of our train heading up to the islands, one of thew first things we noticed was huge pictures and shrines dedicated to the King and his wife. In every building and almost every room there is a picture of him hanging on the walls. On street corners and roundabouts he stares at you daring you to accidentally step on some money. This is a criminal offence as you are standing on a picture of his face if you do and punishable by a long time in a Bangkok jail.
Arriving at 3am in Chumphon, we found a boat that would take us and tens of other passengers to Turtle Island, Koh Tao. The smallest of the famous southern islands, its main business is scuba diving. Stories say that the island is called Turtle island because it looks like one but we can tell you now, my big toe looks more like a turtle. More likely is the fact that is used to be a turtle breeding ground but unfortunately no longer. Once King RamaIV came herey tourism followed and i doubt they were so kind as we are today to the poor old turtles. Anyway less history and more gossip i hear you scream. Well we have a replacement BBF in the form of another english man named Adam. Big guy with a crazy accent he's a barrel of laughs. Especially while on a scooter. For 4 quid each we had the hire of a scooter each for the day and the fact that we are not currently mourning over one of us at the minute is a miracle. On hearing that my 100cc Yamaha Mio could not handle the "roads" to the north of the island i could never back down from a challenge and so in the pitch dark me and bubs headed north. Needless to say we made it, me and bubs owned Koh Tao! Snorkeling was a bit of a let down but chillaxing on the beach and swimming was island life as it should be. Oh by the way, rumours may be circulating of a certain person being involved in a little whoopsie. I can now lay those rumours to rest and confirm that yes, Mr Rory Charles Eves was a casualty of a horrific crash which resulted in major lacerations to his arms and considerable damage to his poor bike. Well at least thats what the lady we rented the bikes from seems to think. Though really all was fine and dandy.,
Wallet lighter and arm patched up we made the monthly migration to Koh Pha-nagn for the internationally acclaimed beach party, The Full Moon Party. Once there though a helpful, and believe me you can't say that about all the taxi drivers over here, informed us that the FMP had changed date and we were far too early. With a tight schedule already we decided to cut our losses and save ourselves from a night of beach party scandal and antics and head straight up to Bangkok.
Jumping back in the boat we came on and then a good long bus journey later, we arrived in the unhealthily early morning, in the hustle and bustle of Thai Capital. Immediately Tuk-Tuk drivers smelt fresh blood, or just fat western wallets and badgered us to get in their 3 wheeled limousines. Refraining from the money sapping tuk-tuks, we trapsed our way through the alleys of Bangkok to find our humble abode, Riverview Guest House. OK we were close to the river, but really, a concrete wall 5m infront of our window does not count as a Riverview. 2 beds and a floor were appreciated though and it was awfully clean for a change.
While Adam slept off a bit of travellers belly etc (try not to picture that) Rory and I ventured into Bangkok to make the most of our few days in this great city. For some reason, we got in to a Tuk-Tuk that took us sight seeing around Bangkok. Well that was a bad idea. Not only did Kwong Lee take us to the worst Wats (Buddhist Temples) the city has to offer, he also is paid to take us places we have no desire on going to. To be fair to him though, the Thai and foot massage that he took us to was superb and just what you need after only 2 hours sleep in the last 2 days or so. The following days was spent exploring more of the city's better temples which were literally breathtaking. So big the camera could barely squeeze it all in to one photo, and so beautiful that no camera would ever do the justice. The Grand Palace and a few museums for extra culture ate up another few hours but maybe a highlight although awfully short, was meeting Rory's old man half way round the world! I'm beginning to realise after days on trains and buses just how big the world is but seeing someone from home again made it all feel so small. In all the world,we just happen to be in the same city at the same time. Another gem of Bangkok, at least this one isn't a fake like the rest in Bangkok, was the Evangelical Church of Bangkok. "Good mornin' ECBBBBBBBB" by cheesy American Pastors was almost as entertaining as the movie "Jumper" that we saw afterwards although the church service was probably a bit more worthwhile. Hearing about some of the work the church was involved with in the city was really moving. Although the penalties for being in possession of drugs here are massive, Bangkok still suffers from major drugs problems.
After 4 days of hustling, lady boys, bartering and Tuk-Tuks, we were more than ready to get out of Bangkok and head up to Chiang Mai where we are currently today. Totally different to the 24hour madness of Bangkok, Chiang Mai is all about elephants and mountains. For now though, thats all you're going to know. Hopefully the next update is not so far away but time is money (about 30p an hour for internet). Oh before i say my farewells, a young gentleman asked about the food here. For someone who is such a fan of stuffing my face i am ashamed that i have bot mentioned it earlier. Generally because we are poor travellers we stick to good old Chicken rice or Chicken noodles. Infact so popular are these dishes amongst poor travellers that chicken Pad Thai (noodles) is synonymous among all travellers and sometimes the only Thai travellers would ever remember. On feeling ignorant and embarrassed about my lack of language skills i am doing my best to pick up handy phrases and always keen to tantalise my pallet with new dishes. Of course though, western food is everywhere although much more expensive. Thai and Malay food is spicy and so much more tasty than our bland rubbish back home. That is why i hope to do a cookery class and wow you all back home with my Asian cuisine and acrobatic use of chop sticks. We'll see about that.
That's all folks. Hope your thirsts for worldly knowledge are quenched, your hunger for mindless ramblings of a traveller satisfied and your burning ears overloaded with gossip from your favourite, former pasty white Irish friends, Rory and Ryan.
xoxo
Friday, 29 February 2008
Monday, 18 February 2008
Nothern Malaysia
Dear avid readers of this ludicrous blog. It has been two weeks now since our last entry and we are sure that tears have been shed and nails nibbled off in fear that something terrible has happened to us. Well wipe away those tears, put down the box of tissues, cancel the bouquet of flowers for our memorial service and have no fear because we are still here.....just about.
Much has happened in the last two weeks and we hope you can understand that when you are in the middle of the oldest jungle in the world, or marooned on an island paradise, the lesser spotted humble computer is not so easily found. So please accept our apologies and enjoy the next few minutes of life wasted reading this slop.
We left you after having just arrived in the melting pot of cultures and home to the best guest house in the world (Emily's incase you're ever in the area), in the rich Port of Melaka. It turned out to be rather uneventful. No wallets were lost and no horrible cases of sunburn to report. Infact our stay was fairly relaxed and enjoyable. Maybe the most interesting thing was spending Chinese New Year here in the middle of Melaka's Chinatown. Celebrating the year of the rat was really only an excuse for the locals to shop a bit more in the street stalls that stayed open long into the night. For Ryan, it was an excuse to sneak a photo with the Megastars of Malaysian pop ( don't ask us who they were) and also meet Governor of the area who was able to fill us in on the latest Irish rugby matches. Apparantly we beat Italy, hallelujah! A quick run around the museums was disappointing but thankfully a BBQ at Emily's was a great send off.
Arriving in the Cameron Highlands a few days later than expected due to the chaos caused by the hoardes of locals travelling during this popular public holiday, left us with no cheap hostel and instead squeezing 4 of us into a small room. Sleeping on the floor, although good for your back, is not a pleasant experience when sharing it with bugs and roaches. The following morning welcomed us with a refreshing cool breeze thanks to areas height above sea level. Maps of the area are to say the least tradgic but the sights are worth stumbling through the jungles and tea plantations to see. These were to be our last days together with our new found BFF. While Stuart and Phil had a guided tour of the surrounding area, we decided to venture on a discover the worlds oldest rainforest, Taman Negara.
After hours spents whizzing through the mountains in our mini bus we finally reached the town of Kuala Tahan, gateway to the National Park. A few days was spent exploring the long hot trails through the 13 million year old virgin rainforest (according to some scientists), fending off fruit bats flying straight at our faces as we delved deep into their guana lined caves, walking amongst the birds and animals of the forest canopy as we followed bridges 50m high and spying wildlife through the dense jungle leaves. Our accommodation was a jungle hide set beside a salt lick that promises to attract a variety of wildlife. Although the jungle is apparantly inhabited by Tigers, Elephants, snakes and rare Tapirs, we knew it was highly unlikely that we would see any of these. However we did see a giraffe sipping tea with a polar bear in the back of a london bus on a casual drive through the forest....... I think that would have been more likely. How anyone is meant to see anything in the dead of night, through the thick jungle branches and smelling as bad as we did covered in bat poop, I don't know. The lack of wildlife vouerism was made even worse by the beds provided in the hides. Hardwood bunk beds with not a bit of padding. Ah well what else should we expect really. Another lesson learnt in the forest is that Ryan truly is an incompetent boob. After deciding to cool off and wash some of the sweat and poo off in the idyllic river, he managed to drop his camera into the drink. Thankfully no damage done but it remains to be seen how long he can carry on being such an idiot and avoid any major consequences. Rory is left in charge of tickets, keys and any other important artefacts at all times from now on.
Anyway a long boat was our escape from the forest. From here is was a full day and a half travel to our next getaway, the Perhentian Islands. Famed for their crystal clear water, beautiful beaches and outstanding marine life, we were not left disappointed. Snorkelling with black tip reef sharks, huge green turtles and having peeling skin nibbled off you by shoals of tropical fish so brightly coloured that they could only be dreamt up in a certain Disney Pixar movie was an unforgettable experience. Only Ryan could ruin it by miss-calculating his money and how long it would last. Purse strings were tightened and after a hunt round the island we found someone willing to exchange our US Dollars. The sun also managed to leave us with more lines and more stripey than a zebra as our sun cream coverage was not particularly effective. Still much chillaxing done which was required after our past few days strenuous exploration.
From here we venture into Thailand and onto the famous Southern Islands with their huge parties before landing in Bangkok and the Northern city of Chang Mai. But thats another story as we're not quite there yet. Anyway much love from us both and we hope you enjoy our photos. Please feel free to keep in contact, make some suggestions and comments are always welcome.
Adios-amigos
Rory & Ryan xoxo
Wednesday, 6 February 2008
Well Singapore is long behind us now and we have moved on to better and bigger things. Let's start though by setting the record straight about Ryan's wallet.
After enjoying our gloopy chinese cuisine in a traditonal hawker centre in the centre of Singapore, we left to get the MRT to our next destintation. At this point Ryan noticed his wallet was no longer in his pocket!
After enjoying our gloopy chinese cuisine in a traditonal hawker centre in the centre of Singapore, we left to get the MRT to our next destintation. At this point Ryan noticed his wallet was no longer in his pocket!
Rory cunningly and artisticly caught the moment with some photographic genius as Ryan realised that not only had he lost his money, Credit card and his will to live, but also most importantly the card allowing them entry into the Melbourne Grandprix!!! Oh the shame! Some context now, Singapore is too nice for pick pocketers and Ryan too much of an incompetent fool, so putting 2 and 2 together we knew it was somewhere in the hawker centre although likely to be carried off by some cheap traveller who realises that his lucky find will find him more beers and a comfortable bed for the night. Anyway a speedy canter back to the food hall under the midday sun, and the incomprehensible feeling of self loathing, left Ryan in a thick sticky layer of nervous sweat. Thankfully this was a rescue beacon in the swell of Singaporean business folk for 2 delightful young ladies to chirp "Reeaahhnn" and grab our attention. At that moment the clouds opened and a beam of light surrounded Ryan as he danced on the tables hugging and kissing any unfortunate soul unlucky enough to be within his sweaty grasp. Well i made that bit up but we were very very pleased and relieved. A real answer to prayer.
Anyway now that that's cleared up back to our travels. Follow it on the map below if you like. We crossed the causeway out of Singapore after visiting Changi Chapel & Museum. We almost made a prison visit too before our friendly bus driver told us to "sit down, sit down". From the causeway a bus took us from Johor Bahru up to a small fishing town called Mersing were we met our new BBF Stuart and Phil. A boat whisked us away the following morning to Pulau Tioman, a paradise island with Rocky peaks, white sands, palm lined beaches and beautiful coral reefs. Our accomodation for 2 nights here were simple garden sheds with only enough room to squeeze in a double bed and a leaking toilet. Still the snorkelling and island wildlife of tropical fish and huge lizards kept us out of the sheds except late at night and to be honest they were grand.
3 days there was enough for us all to get nasty sunburn even with all the clouds. It was brilliant and very enjoyable but Kuala Lumpar our next destination was calling.
Slightly disappointing, this huge city offered us not much more than huge buildings and hoardes of hustlers. Highlights included climbing the 4th tallest building in the world for a great view of KL, visiting muslims "heaven on earth" Batu caves, cheering on Steven Chow for a brief second at his latest movie premier of CJ7 and being offered a stolen Rolex in the middle of the streets. Classy stuff i think you'll agree. A rickety but truly chilled out travellers hostel served us well but compared to our latest accomodation now in Melaka, it was like a rotten cardboard box.
Melaka is a huge mix of colonial cultures. With Portugese, Dutch and Britsh all ruling here throughout history, along with the normal mixes of Indian, Malay & Chinese its very interesting and we are looking forward to spending Chinese new year here in the middle of Chinatown. However, we are finding it difficult to leave our accomodation as it really is a home away from home. Called "Emily's" it has only been open a year and as yet not in "the BOOK". However Jay and Malik have made a Nirvana or Valhalla in a small house on some random street. Everyone should go here, especially the Swedish. I won't try to explain it as i will only let it down but simply come here and see it for yourself.
Malaysia so far has been incredibly enjoyable. A week here would not have done it justice and we are more than happy to spend more time here and less in Thailand. With less tourism and dirt cheap prices its an incredible place to visit. Only dont be suckered in to paying huge amounts for a nice meal as we were last night. You could easily have a great meal for US$3. I sound like im working for malaysia tourism board but maybe i should just get a job with the lonely planet.
I'll do you all a favour and shut up now. We're both having a great time and wish we could share it with you more. Don't forget to keep in touch and pass on our love to everybody and anybody.
Si-ah-nara friends,
Yours truly
Rory and Ryan
Anyway now that that's cleared up back to our travels. Follow it on the map below if you like. We crossed the causeway out of Singapore after visiting Changi Chapel & Museum. We almost made a prison visit too before our friendly bus driver told us to "sit down, sit down". From the causeway a bus took us from Johor Bahru up to a small fishing town called Mersing were we met our new BBF Stuart and Phil. A boat whisked us away the following morning to Pulau Tioman, a paradise island with Rocky peaks, white sands, palm lined beaches and beautiful coral reefs. Our accomodation for 2 nights here were simple garden sheds with only enough room to squeeze in a double bed and a leaking toilet. Still the snorkelling and island wildlife of tropical fish and huge lizards kept us out of the sheds except late at night and to be honest they were grand.
3 days there was enough for us all to get nasty sunburn even with all the clouds. It was brilliant and very enjoyable but Kuala Lumpar our next destination was calling.
Slightly disappointing, this huge city offered us not much more than huge buildings and hoardes of hustlers. Highlights included climbing the 4th tallest building in the world for a great view of KL, visiting muslims "heaven on earth" Batu caves, cheering on Steven Chow for a brief second at his latest movie premier of CJ7 and being offered a stolen Rolex in the middle of the streets. Classy stuff i think you'll agree. A rickety but truly chilled out travellers hostel served us well but compared to our latest accomodation now in Melaka, it was like a rotten cardboard box.
Melaka is a huge mix of colonial cultures. With Portugese, Dutch and Britsh all ruling here throughout history, along with the normal mixes of Indian, Malay & Chinese its very interesting and we are looking forward to spending Chinese new year here in the middle of Chinatown. However, we are finding it difficult to leave our accomodation as it really is a home away from home. Called "Emily's" it has only been open a year and as yet not in "the BOOK". However Jay and Malik have made a Nirvana or Valhalla in a small house on some random street. Everyone should go here, especially the Swedish. I won't try to explain it as i will only let it down but simply come here and see it for yourself.
Malaysia so far has been incredibly enjoyable. A week here would not have done it justice and we are more than happy to spend more time here and less in Thailand. With less tourism and dirt cheap prices its an incredible place to visit. Only dont be suckered in to paying huge amounts for a nice meal as we were last night. You could easily have a great meal for US$3. I sound like im working for malaysia tourism board but maybe i should just get a job with the lonely planet.
I'll do you all a favour and shut up now. We're both having a great time and wish we could share it with you more. Don't forget to keep in touch and pass on our love to everybody and anybody.
Si-ah-nara friends,
Yours truly
Rory and Ryan
Sunday, 3 February 2008
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