Jeepers, was the last post we did really all the way back at the Glaciers?! It felt like only yesterday we were clambering over giant ice cubes and dodging light speed rivers of ice. Maybe that's because since then we have done so flipping much, hence we've never been able to get near man greatest ever invention.
Lets start from where we left off, Franz Josef and Fox Glacier. The weather did clear up and in the end we had clear skies in which to enjoy these natural wonders. Ignoring safety signs we clambered over the face and really appreciated the size of them. After careful measurement, we were able to come to the conclusion that they were even bigger than Ryan's feet. Impressive to say the least. On leaving the Glaciers and west coast, we also left the rain behind. Didn't feel another drop until Christchurch so this allowed us to enjoy New Zealand's finest offerings in all their glory.
After guiding Zeus through the winding and beautiful Haast Pass, we landed in Wanaka. To say it was beautiful, is an understatement the likes of which has never been heard. Snow capped peaks mirrored as they tower above crystal clear lakes was just so inviting. So seizing the moment, like magnificent men in their flying machines, we were carried up to the heavens before throwing ourselves (or thrown!) out of our winged chariots and hurtled towards the ground at a mere 60 meters per second. At that speed even the the most tight browed plastic surgery addict from Hollywood, has jowls like a turkey and cheeks so puffed out that they could park their limousines inside! But, what a stunning way to see Mt. Aspiring National Park and the tallest Mountain in Oceania, Mt. Cook. For those who would prefer us to be less hasty in our sight seeing and not leave such a dent with our carbon foot print, mountains were scaled and time taken to appreciate and take in this most scenic, beautiful, awe inducing, inspiring countryside. Note should also be paid to the St. Andrews Presby church visited in the morning that provided us with a fabulous lunch and then the Lighthouse that gave us plenty to think about. Check these out WHEN, not if you are ever in the area.
After the biggest adrenaline rush of our lives, we headed to Queenstown. For those in the know and with backpacking knowledge, this is not only the adrenaline capital of South Island, or NZ but the whole world. Bank balances could be drained like Tescos turkeys at Christmas time so just a few hours after falling from 12,000ft we decided to jump in a boat strapped to 7000 horses or seahorses more likely. Well it was fast and more nerve racking than Ryan driving Zeus blindfolded, but what a laugh. Don't worry Zeus was never driven blind although Matthew's road kill count would suggest otherwise. Almost a National Sport, smooshing Australia's introduced possums is taught to learner divers along side learning which pedal does what and knowing that a car has 4 wheels and an engine. The abundance of road side mess makes a huge feast for the countless birds of prey and we imagine they must must see road sides as a motorway buffet diner. If only our food was as cheap.
It was in Queenstown that our paths split for the first time in 4 months. While Ryan, hauled his bag over 1500m up and 48km along, Matthew and Rory took a leisurely drive and met him at the other side the next day. A sweaty mess, but with sights etched in to his memory, Ryan slept like a baby that night eager about the next day and the jewel of NZ's tourist industry. Carved thousands of years ago, by what must have been colossal ice cubes, Milford Sound boasts 600m high near vertical cliffs that plunge into deep fiords stolen from the west coast of Norway. Pipped to be the 8th wonder of the world, Milford sound is infested with cruise boats and noisy tourists, nearly falling over board as they try to get that perfect snap shot of Mitre Peak; a 1900m guardian of the fiord. Well, we were 3 of those tourists and like the millions who have gone before us, blown away by the incredible beauty.
What to do after seeing something like that? Getting lost down a dark cave with only one torch between the 3 of us is quite exciting, and bowling for the first time in 4 months down in Invercargill is pretty good, but lets face it, Milford Sound and Mt. Aspiring National Park are the balls! We had made it from Cape Reinga at the very top, all the way to Bluff right at the south and although route 1 will take you more directly, the extra few kms we had travelled between them was more than worth it. We even picked up a German hitch hiker along the way and discussed how relations between our 2 great countries could be mended while listening to hard core German hip hop, Zie Hail!
Dunedin was our next port of call and to be honest it beat all expectations. A thriving student city it boasts not just Cadbury World, or the First Church of Otago (Presby, obviously darlings), or the steepest street in the world (which we scaled (but not in Zeus)), but it's biggest and bestest boast is that it's home to Speights Brewery, "Pride of the South". Never has beer been so educational and a guide so enthralling. A free bar afterwards was made the most of before getting back in Zeus and driving north to Oamaru and its colony of blue penguins. Don't fret, fortuanately we had designated Matthew driver and that may be because he doesn't like beer. That explains why he thinks we're British then.
A night of fishing landed numerous dogfish, not sharks as Ryan first screamed, and a few penguin sightings. Small and blue, we decided not to have them for dinner and instead Matthew blinded them with his flash photography. The next day it was our final road trip, and Ryan coaxed dear Zeus up the final few hundred kms to Christchurch where we were to try and sell our beloved friend.
The next 2 days give us plenty of time to think how much fun we had enjoyed with our trusty steed and how much we would miss her, as not one soul paid a blind bit of interest in her even after we had spruced her up and got her looking sparkly clean. It wasn't until our final day at the market that Sarah, all the way from the french Alps, laid eyes on beautiful Zeus and immediately fell in love with her. It wasn't long before we had a whole lot more money in our wallets and one less bed to sleep in. Capital of the South, Christchurch was very beautiful and full of charm. Still we had only the morning to enjoy it before we were whisked away by Mr. Qantas to our new home in Brisbane, Queensland, Australia.
A whole lot warmer and more people than we could shake a stick at, being back in a proper, global city was exciting and the prospect of a shower a day made us pee a litlle with excitement. A huge metrapolis we were chauffeured around the city first by Declan, and then landed in Ben and Julia's manse in the suburbs. Contacts of a contact of Matthews father, it was strange but very quickly we were made to feel very welcome and this soon became a home from home. After attending Ben's Taiwanese church and 2 hours of interpretation, their son Jeff guided us around the sights sounds and magicians of Brisbane. Like Melbourne, everyone was outside enjoying themselves, while eating and drinking, and unlike NZ it didn't all close down at 6pm.
It's here that we have once again parted company. While Rory and Matthew journey south to Byron Bay to visit friends, Ryan has ventured north to the Whitsunday Islands and the Great Barrier reef.
Now before my free meal ticket expires, I must bolt, but I'm sure by the next time we get a chance to compile another volume of rubbish, there will be countless more stories and exploits with which to make you unhealthily bitter that you are not out here with us.
Love, hugs and kisses to all.
Adieu
Tuesday, 27 May 2008
Friday, 9 May 2008
Last time we spoke, we had just visited the most Northerly tip of mainland New Zealand and an area of massive Maori importance. Since then we have travelled almost to the other end of NZ and are currently hiding from the rain in one of the worlds highest rainfall areas! How things have changed since we rubbed salt in your wounds as we basked in all that cancer inducing sun whilst most of home struggled to stay afloat in the heavy rain and snow!
Well we'll fill you in quickly on some of our latest exploits. Cape Reinga and the meeting of the Tasman Sea and Pacific ocean was brilliant and the Bay of Islands in all it's sun lapped glory was just as good. Scenic drives along back country roads kept our cameras working over time and allowed Zeus, our big red van, to stretch her legs. Like a nimble footed mountain goat, she delivered us form one scenic view point to the next and down to some truly beautiful stretches of beach. Too important to us and loved too much, we decided not to risk her on ninety mile beach and it's treacherous waves. A couple of days spent swimming, fishing (and in Ryan's case rescuing deadly poisonous Lion fish, from the hook and wrath of Rory and Matthew) and even a spot of rugby. It was a long old jaunt from here down past Auckland and to the farming region of Waikato. Sheep were of course a plenty but sine we are not from Ballymena, we did not come here simply for our fluffy white, four legged friends. Instead, like the flies and moths that go before us, it was the star like light produced by thousands of glow-worms hanging from huge cave systems that lured us here. Even Sir David Attenborough couldn't resist their charm and was drawn here like a weary sailor tempted by mythical sirens! A few hours later we emerged cold, wet and muddy but with memories of floating through caves lit only by twinkling lights. It felt like being on a space ship, zooming through galaxies like spok and Darth Vader.
Our next destination was the smelly town of Rotorua. With a smell of rotten eggs in the air that burnt the nostrils, we left slightly disappointed. Yes the thermal pools were lovely and rivers slightly warm, but the strong sulphur drove us away like Zeus from salt water. Thankfully Zeus got driven south towards the volcanic region of Tongariro National Park. Ryan woke at 7am and tears crept in to his eyes (or maybe it was just condensation from the windows) as the realisation that clouds would once again scupper their plans to experience this incredible mountain range. 2 hours of disappointed and dread filled sleep later, he woke peeping his head out through the curtains to see again a carpet of clouds.....except for a patch of blue sky coming in over Mount Tongariro. As if zapped by an electric cow prodder he jumped into life and dragged the rest of the mottly crew with him. They ventured through thick forest and flodded paths up the mountain side constantly racing the clouds. In the end, they enjoyed wonderful panormaic views of the country side, volcanoes, vents, lava flows and other geological volcanical wonders of the world. The bright turquoise Emerald Lakes and rusty coloured Red crater were unbelievable sights and the rim of the red crater made a nice heated seat that roasted our derriere while we luncheoned like old grannies after a jolly good old knees up.
We returned to our decrepid traveller Gavin, and Zeus promptly whisked us up to the adrenaline fuelled township of Taupo. Located beside the beautiful Lake Taupo our plans were to enjoy the sights while hurtling towards them at over 200 km/h (not quite as fast as Zeus) after jumping out of a plane at 12000ft. Well after a few hours wasted exploring the craters of the moon which was a bad idea, don't go there, we were once again scuppered. This time not by the weather but with less than 30mins before we were due to kill ourselves, the radar broke. For our parents and anyone else who may love us a little, i'm sure this was a blessing, but we were gutted and left Taupo disheartened. On our way to NZ's capital, not Auckland but Wellington, we made a few stops into Palmerston north so Ryan could catch a glimpse of his future education and then an overnight halt in Otaki. Not on most travellers itineraries, this was our best campsite yet. A kind soul had invited us to stay the night and hot showers, room to wriggle our toes and a real proper, mattress laden, duvet covered, bed were most appreciated. We salute you Mary P!
After helping in the morning with the horses and lumber jack duties, we left with a well rested head and some homemade marmalade. What a star. Welly was the home of Gavins one and only desire in NZ. Monkeys, tigers, guinea pigs and Meerkats at Wellington Zoo kept him entertained along with the waitress working in the zoos cafeteria. It was our last night together so to celebrate more room in the van for the remaining 3, and hot showers beds and general comfortable living for Gavin and Chris we hit the town, reducing prime beef steak stocks considerably before enteratining the locals in pubs and clubs throughout Welly. Our last morning together we spent getting lost once again in NZ's best museum the Te Papa.
At 3pm it was the feitful time when paths must split and company part ways. Tears were shed and hugs and kissed passed amongst us but Ryan still lost in Te Papa was nowhere to be seen. He had missed the long goodbyes but luckily emerged in time for the boat. Our sailing across the Cook Strait was thankfully uneventful and 3 hours later we were back on dry land in New Zealands South Island.
Our first day was spent doing the glamorous things such laundry for the first time in weeks, grocery shopping and van tidying. All the things we love to do most. Compared to this a day spent Kayaking in the aqua-marine blue waters of the Abel Tasman National Park, under brilliant sunshine was utterly miserable. Well not quite infact, it rivalled the Tongariro crossing for vistas, photo oppertunities and just good old fashioned fun. We became seasoned naturists spotting different native birds and seals doing the arduous task of sunbathing.
Complete with blisters and sore, tired arms we ventured on to Alpine country and the beautiful Nelson Lakes National Park. While the weather was still kind and we continued on to the amazing West Coast. Once faous for it's gold mining heritage, now mother nature and the amazing creation draws tourists here like bees to a honey pot, or women to a sale or trekkies to a startrek convention. Although yes it is raining on us, this is not uncommon as 263 days a year average a good bit of rain and normally about 5.1m of the stuff falls each year. Still the huge ice cubes that are Franz Josef and Fox Glacier are pulling us away from our computer screens and towards more heavenly sights. Please excuse us rushing off but again blue sky is squeezing through the clouds and we're off to make the most of it. Run run run!
Love you muchly readers
Well we'll fill you in quickly on some of our latest exploits. Cape Reinga and the meeting of the Tasman Sea and Pacific ocean was brilliant and the Bay of Islands in all it's sun lapped glory was just as good. Scenic drives along back country roads kept our cameras working over time and allowed Zeus, our big red van, to stretch her legs. Like a nimble footed mountain goat, she delivered us form one scenic view point to the next and down to some truly beautiful stretches of beach. Too important to us and loved too much, we decided not to risk her on ninety mile beach and it's treacherous waves. A couple of days spent swimming, fishing (and in Ryan's case rescuing deadly poisonous Lion fish, from the hook and wrath of Rory and Matthew) and even a spot of rugby. It was a long old jaunt from here down past Auckland and to the farming region of Waikato. Sheep were of course a plenty but sine we are not from Ballymena, we did not come here simply for our fluffy white, four legged friends. Instead, like the flies and moths that go before us, it was the star like light produced by thousands of glow-worms hanging from huge cave systems that lured us here. Even Sir David Attenborough couldn't resist their charm and was drawn here like a weary sailor tempted by mythical sirens! A few hours later we emerged cold, wet and muddy but with memories of floating through caves lit only by twinkling lights. It felt like being on a space ship, zooming through galaxies like spok and Darth Vader.
Our next destination was the smelly town of Rotorua. With a smell of rotten eggs in the air that burnt the nostrils, we left slightly disappointed. Yes the thermal pools were lovely and rivers slightly warm, but the strong sulphur drove us away like Zeus from salt water. Thankfully Zeus got driven south towards the volcanic region of Tongariro National Park. Ryan woke at 7am and tears crept in to his eyes (or maybe it was just condensation from the windows) as the realisation that clouds would once again scupper their plans to experience this incredible mountain range. 2 hours of disappointed and dread filled sleep later, he woke peeping his head out through the curtains to see again a carpet of clouds.....except for a patch of blue sky coming in over Mount Tongariro. As if zapped by an electric cow prodder he jumped into life and dragged the rest of the mottly crew with him. They ventured through thick forest and flodded paths up the mountain side constantly racing the clouds. In the end, they enjoyed wonderful panormaic views of the country side, volcanoes, vents, lava flows and other geological volcanical wonders of the world. The bright turquoise Emerald Lakes and rusty coloured Red crater were unbelievable sights and the rim of the red crater made a nice heated seat that roasted our derriere while we luncheoned like old grannies after a jolly good old knees up.
We returned to our decrepid traveller Gavin, and Zeus promptly whisked us up to the adrenaline fuelled township of Taupo. Located beside the beautiful Lake Taupo our plans were to enjoy the sights while hurtling towards them at over 200 km/h (not quite as fast as Zeus) after jumping out of a plane at 12000ft. Well after a few hours wasted exploring the craters of the moon which was a bad idea, don't go there, we were once again scuppered. This time not by the weather but with less than 30mins before we were due to kill ourselves, the radar broke. For our parents and anyone else who may love us a little, i'm sure this was a blessing, but we were gutted and left Taupo disheartened. On our way to NZ's capital, not Auckland but Wellington, we made a few stops into Palmerston north so Ryan could catch a glimpse of his future education and then an overnight halt in Otaki. Not on most travellers itineraries, this was our best campsite yet. A kind soul had invited us to stay the night and hot showers, room to wriggle our toes and a real proper, mattress laden, duvet covered, bed were most appreciated. We salute you Mary P!
After helping in the morning with the horses and lumber jack duties, we left with a well rested head and some homemade marmalade. What a star. Welly was the home of Gavins one and only desire in NZ. Monkeys, tigers, guinea pigs and Meerkats at Wellington Zoo kept him entertained along with the waitress working in the zoos cafeteria. It was our last night together so to celebrate more room in the van for the remaining 3, and hot showers beds and general comfortable living for Gavin and Chris we hit the town, reducing prime beef steak stocks considerably before enteratining the locals in pubs and clubs throughout Welly. Our last morning together we spent getting lost once again in NZ's best museum the Te Papa.
At 3pm it was the feitful time when paths must split and company part ways. Tears were shed and hugs and kissed passed amongst us but Ryan still lost in Te Papa was nowhere to be seen. He had missed the long goodbyes but luckily emerged in time for the boat. Our sailing across the Cook Strait was thankfully uneventful and 3 hours later we were back on dry land in New Zealands South Island.
Our first day was spent doing the glamorous things such laundry for the first time in weeks, grocery shopping and van tidying. All the things we love to do most. Compared to this a day spent Kayaking in the aqua-marine blue waters of the Abel Tasman National Park, under brilliant sunshine was utterly miserable. Well not quite infact, it rivalled the Tongariro crossing for vistas, photo oppertunities and just good old fashioned fun. We became seasoned naturists spotting different native birds and seals doing the arduous task of sunbathing.
Complete with blisters and sore, tired arms we ventured on to Alpine country and the beautiful Nelson Lakes National Park. While the weather was still kind and we continued on to the amazing West Coast. Once faous for it's gold mining heritage, now mother nature and the amazing creation draws tourists here like bees to a honey pot, or women to a sale or trekkies to a startrek convention. Although yes it is raining on us, this is not uncommon as 263 days a year average a good bit of rain and normally about 5.1m of the stuff falls each year. Still the huge ice cubes that are Franz Josef and Fox Glacier are pulling us away from our computer screens and towards more heavenly sights. Please excuse us rushing off but again blue sky is squeezing through the clouds and we're off to make the most of it. Run run run!
Love you muchly readers
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